Poppy Gall Design Studio

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Named after Wilson Picket’s R&B hit ‘Mustang Sally’ I designed this multi purpose jacket to  ”Ride, Sally, Ride!”.  Ride through all sorts of temperature fluctuations and precipitous weather events that is, while still looking good  - regardless if you’re riding the lift, around in your late model Ford Mustang or the one in your paddock.

The street savvy tweedy waterproof fabric is feminized by interesting vertical and horizontal embroidery and pleat placement. What you can’t see here is the pop of color in the floral quilted insulated lining. Designed for Isis for F/W 2010/2011. To see more of my portfolio click here.

MustangSally

To see what sort of projects Poppy Gall Design Studio is working on via facebook click here.

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Spiral Banner

I was leafing through an old portfolio the other day and came across photos of a site specific art installation that I made a number of winters ago. Inspired by Buddhist prayer flags I’d seen in Nepal, I wanted to create something that transferred some of their colorful and spiritual motion.

I stitched a 45” x 90” saffron colored satin banner (reminiscent of the color of Tibetan monk’s robes) with an exuberant magenta spiral which I hung in a tree at a local cross-country ski center. I chose a spot where four trails intersect and skiers stop to catch their breath, chat or decide which trail to take. It’s a nice place of convergence.

I’ve always been fascinated by the visible patterns made by wind and water and am particularly drawn to whirlpools and spirals. Typically a vortex pulls into itself toward the center. However I draw my spirals from the center outward in an open gesture. By adding “droplets” being flung from the spiral I indicated motion, energy and freedom.

My banner caught wind and sunlight all winter long and warmed up the surrounding blue-grey environment. Part of the art experience I envisioned was having skiers unexpectedly discover and ponder it deep in the woods.

SpiralBanner2©Poppy Gall 2011

SpiralBanner©Poppy Gall 2011

To see more of my artwork click here.

Click here to “like” Poppy Gall Design facebook page.

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I was flattered when Marcus Woolf from SNEWS interviewed me recently for O.R.D. Outdoor Retailer Daily, the esteemed trade show publication of the Outdoor Retailer trade show. Here’s the complete interview from the January 22, 2011 issue. Thanks Marcus!

PoppyGall©PennieRand

Poppy Gall

A woman’s apparel pioneer talks technology, green fibers, and other design trends driving the future of outdoor clothing

As co-founder of Isis, the first U.S. women’s outdoor apparel brand, Poppy Gall helped revolutionize outdoor clothing for women, elevating the sense of style without compromising fit and performance. She stepped away from Isis a year ago to launch her own design studio, and you can see her new creations on the show floor at companies such as Darn Tough and Chums. She tells us about her design inspirations.

What sparked you to leave Isis and start your own design studio?

Internal changes at Isis, which compounded with the economic climate eventually led to Kellwood acquiring the company. Once the company decided to start looking for a buyer, it gave me the freedom to move on and start my design studio.

What has been the greatest challenge in making that move? And what has been the greatest reward?

I’ve spent the last year regaining the life balance that I lost while growing Isis. It’s been a challenge to recalibrate after working 60+ hours a week. The greatest reward has been the tremendous outpouring of support that I have received for my new studio from the Outdoor Industry community.

What are your major sources of inspiration for design?

I’ve been asked this question a lot over the years and it even prompted me to start blogging about my color and design inspirations (http://www.PoppyGall.com/blog). As an active user of outdoor gear, I am always thinking of ways to make apparel perform better in the environment for which it is intended, whether it is through fabrication, features or fit. My print and color work is influenced by what I see in the natural, fashion and art worlds.

What are a few of the major trends you see coming in apparel design — colors, silhouettes, fabrications, etc.?

The last couple of seasons have made it tough for apparel brands to innovate because of the economy and issues with Asian manufacturers; “safe” design has overridden adventurous design. Now with the economy turning around, I foresee more use of eco-friendly and natural fibers, lighter weight fabrics and insulations, and design being pushed by improved laser-cutting and bonding technologies. Outdoor wear that can cross into urban lifestyles is still an important trend.

What are the best words of wisdom you’ve received?

I had a writing professor once who stressed that one should write about what they know, to be 100% honest and authentic – no bullshitting; otherwise you’ll be called on it. I find this bit of advice also applies to good design and good working relationships.

What are you most proud of?

Right now, I am honored to have created Isis, the first U.S. niche brand that specialized in women-only outdoor apparel.

Where is your favorite place to escape to?

For inspiration and time to clear my head, I like to escape into the mountains to ski and hike. When I want to create, I escape to my snug timber frame studio that my husband built for me on our property.

What was the worst job you ever had?

Loading chairlifts for the Alpine Slide at Bromley Ski Area. Lifties had to wipe slugs off the track every morning with old towels before opening time.

What is the most positive development you see happening in the outdoor industry?

It’s very exciting to see so many more women in leadership positions, and women-specific products than ever before in our industry. I believe that it will be these women who will help the industry attract young people to outdoor lifestyles and products. I am also hopeful that suppliers of earth-friendly materials, and the manufacturers who use them, will thrive. I also think Project O.R. is brilliant!

What person would you most like go on a hike with, and why?

Could it be a group hike? Rachel Carson, John Muir, Edward Abbey, Terry Tempest Williams, Gary Snyder, Dolores LaChapelle, because their work and writings as advocates for the earth have deeply affected my perceptions of the natural world.

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After deciding to leave Isis a little over a year ago, my husband Mike and I started talking about making my dream of having a studio on our property become a reality. We tossed around the idea of building a new small outbuilding, but when we put pencil to paper decided that it would be better to renovate our 16′x20′ timber frame garden/storage shed that Mike had built years ago.

Being a fan of timber frame construction – massive posts and beams joined together with wooded pegs – I agreed to this plan and was excited to utilize the frame as part of the interior design.

The renovation took almost a year as Mike and I plugged away at it in our free time, he the master carpenter and me a gopher. My contribution consisted of wielding a paintbrush, broom or shovel and making runs to the lumberyard and bakery.

First we had to clear out years of accumulated stuff – wheelbarrow, lawnmower and chainsaws; motorcycles, skis and bicycles; potting soil and flowerpots… Mike ended up having to build a large shed off his big barn workshop to store all the stuff we didn’t purged at the dump.

Before

We enlisted my good-natured brother-in-law Bob to spend a whole week helping insulate the floor, walls and roof and to sheetrock the space. In the meantime the electricians dug up the front lawn and my garden laying underground power to my soon-to-be-studio.

Mike then set about building double-hung windows and casings based on plans that I had drawn up. The studio’s windows (and doors) are influenced by classic New England architecture and my love for whimsical Scandinavian detail.

I was insistent that the windowsills be deep so I could place vases of flowers, pots of pencils and my collection of pebbles on them. Most of the windows are on the south side of the building and utilize the sun’s rays, even though this is contrary to how most artists orient their studios.

windowsill

After many crumpled pages of scale drawings I finally came up with a plan for my workspace. Along one wall Mike crafted built-in drawers, cabinets, shelves and a desk area. The opposite wall has no built-ins so I am free to move furniture around as needed.

Studio_drawing

There are so many colors I love, but ultimately I chose to paint the windows and cabinets a calm blue (I copied Behr ‘Opal Silk’) and the floor a warm green. The exposed timber frame, rafters and ceiling remain their natural aged wood color. The walls are a warm white. I chose brushed aluminum pendant lights, cabinet knobs and accessories. I like the way the wood makes the space warm, the paint adds color and the aluminum prevents it from becoming too traditional.

To me, using plywood – painted a cheery color – for the counters on the built-ins, seemed like a good idea but after I told Mike my plan, he surprised me by installing 18’ long boards of rippled native Vermont tiger maple instead. He couldn’t bear to have plywood finish off his beautiful cabinetry!

North

It is amazing to me that, for the first time in my life, I have such a variety of places to put stuff neatly away! I have plenty of corkboard to tack up my work and room to spread my projects out. Big drawers hold flat files and there’s space for dressmaker dummies, a sewing machine and gridwall. I even have storage space in the attic!

South

Working in my new studio is a joy and I can’t wait to get out there in the morning and get my day going. I’ve been super charged with new ideas since I moved in. I haven’t been working in it long enough to really mess it up, and right now I’m enjoying its un-cluttered feel.

Thank You Mike for all your hard work and making my studio dream a reality. The wait was worth it! It’s a truly handmade-from-scratch labor of love and you did 99% of it yourself. Now that it’s finished, it’s snowing, let’s get out and play!

Studio-exterior_snow

To become an interactive part of Poppy Gall Design Studio on facebook click here.

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One of the things that I like best about what I do is developing seasonal color palettes. I always put together a “mood board”, or collage, that represents the color theme I’m working on which shows how the colors play with each other. Because I design mostly outdoor clothing I use  the natural world for color inspiration; Mother Nature rarely screws up her color combinations. I then confirm my palette with color trends I see in the fashion world and popular culture. This color palette is one that I put together for Isis for Winter 2010.

©Poppy Gall Design Studio 2010

To see more about Poppy Gall Design Studio click here.

To see more color palettes click here.

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I spent New Year’s weekend exploring the winding and cobbled streets of Quebec City on foot (when I wasn’t skiing that is). My Snow Queen Coat, which I designed for Isis, was the perfect choice for the city’s climate – damp cold and sometimes windy.

It was refreshing to be in a city where fashion conscious women know how to dress for the weather. For once I felt like I fit right in! The majority of women were wearing some type of long down coat with a hood – from ankle length to above the knee. Most were from major outdoor and ski brands, predominantly The North Face. Not surprisingly black was the prevalent color.

The practical and stylish boots I saw parading through the slush also impressed me. Knee high boots with good tread and insulation, from brands such as Merrell, outnumbered boots with narrow heels and thin soles.

It appears that Quebec women are not afraid of hat hair. I have never seen such an assortment of headwear outside a ski area – from stylish cable beanies to earflap hats with animal faces and ears (I’ve observed their popularity in the Big Apple too) and everything in between.

My Snow Queen kept me toasty walking from the old port along the St. Lawrence to the New Year’s eve street party up on the Grande Allee where we rang in the New Year with 50,000 other revelers. My camera and wallet were secure in easily accessible pockets. I opted to snap on the removable faux fur ruff that’s around the hood so it could catch snowflakes and keep them out of my eyes.

Here’s to keeping warm and stylish in 2011!

SnowQueen

To see more of Poppy Gall Design Studio portfolio click here.

“Like” my Poppy Gall Design facebook page to see what sorts of projects we’re working on and to become an interactive part of the studio. Thank you!

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This is a story about a hat and friendship. Nancy and I first met at a trade show in Las Vegas where I was selling hats for my knitting company Mountain Ladies & Ewe. She owned a shop in Virginia and became an enthusiastic new customer.

Fast forward about 10 years, long after I’d sold my knitting company and Nancy had sold her shop. Nancy moved to Vermont, about 20 miles down the road from me, and we become fast skiing, paddling and hiking friends.

Fast forward another 17 years. One day when we met to go skiing Nancy surprised me by showing up wearing a vintage Mountain Ladies & Ewe “Llama” earflap hat! She was distressed that her old favorite had acquired some moth holes and asked if I could repair it.

It’s taken me about a year to get around to it, but over the holidays I rummaged around in my old bags of knitting wool and found the exact yarn that the hat was made from and fixed it.

As I darned it back together I remembered how the design was from a hat that my father brought back from a ski trip in Portillo, Chile, how I’d figured out how to knit the earflaps on a knitting machine sparking a fad among skiers, about all the wonderful knitters I had employed, my funky wood-heated shop, and how I still never want to use a hand operated knitting machine ever again. But mostly I thought about all the fun outdoor adventures that Nancy and I have shared, and the long friendship that started all because of a hat!

llama

The well worn Llama hat before repairs

ML&E

graph

I still have the original graph work for the design in an old notebook!

To become an interactive part of Poppy Gall Design Studio on facebook click here.

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Finding the new Title Nine holiday 2010 catalog in my snow-laden mailbox was a real treat. I had a direct hand in creating many of the jackets, knits and hats in it. The gals at Title Nine are real pros at laying out products, coordinating colors and showing off the best of embroidery, trim and print details. Their catalog copy is always entertaining to boot.

It takes a long time to bring a collection to market and I started this one for Isis at the end of 2008. My team of talented Product Developers, designers and fit model spent endless hours making the product just right. They are also thrilled to see their hard work in print! Happily a number of those members are now part of my Poppy Gall Design Studio.

Here’s a peek at some of my work…

Cover

T92

T93

To see more of Poppy Gall Design Studio work, click here.

T98

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My new favorite jacket is one that I designed for Isis for Fall 2010. It has a nice textured water resistant outer shell and a fuzzy lining. It’s a sporty around-town piece that’s cozy like a fleece jacket but a lot warmer. It’s nice to pull the hood up when the wind whips by. The only bummer is when the hood is down it covers the tonal embroidery on the back yoke.

The focal point of the jacket (I also designed a matching vest) is the embroidery, which I based on inspiration from Maori tattoos and carved designs. I have a weakness for spirals in any form. I think it’s because they are satisfying to draw and have symbolic meaning in many cultures. They remind me of growing things. Spirals can either travel in on themselves or unfurl from the center. My spirals are the latter.

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IMG_1448

This is the inspiration board I put together for the Bliss Jacket.

BLISSINSP

To see more of my work click here or visit my Poppy Gall Design Studio website.

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Wow! It’s already been a year since I left Isis (the company I co-founded), launched Poppy Gall Design Studio and started blogging. It has been a very creative and invigorating twelve months! My studio has worked on projects ranging from technical outerwear design and product coloration to knitwear patterns and pajamas.

I’ve made more time in my life for making my own creative mess, including Lacey the Cow – my biggest piece of artwork ever! Smaller scale projects, some in various states of completion, include printmaking, knitting and photography. With endless hours of planning, and with my husband’s patience and labor, I have  finally moved into my new studio. Having a great space is an incredible boost to my creativity.

Thank you to all who have been following my blog, and to those who have held my hand as I tread in cyberspace. It’s sometimes scary putting myself out there, but the process and rewards of blogging are much bigger than the sum of its parts. I’ve met new clients and friends, reconnected with old ones, and been inspired by my reader’s comments and emails.

As I enter into my 2nd year of blogging with far more ideas to post than I have time, I’d like some feedback from you, dear follower. What about my blog engages you? What topics do you find the most interesting or which do you skip over? Are there subjects you’d like to see more of, or less? Do I post too many pictures or too few? Is the information I share useful to you? Do you forward my blog to others? Are my posts too frequent or too few? How did you find out about my blog? I welcome all constructive criticism.

For all of you who respond to this request, between now and December 15th, by posting a thoughtful comment on this post, subscribe to my blog via FeedBurner email (see the box on the upper left sidebar on my blog), or  if you “like” my Poppy Gall Design Studio facebook page, I will pool all your names together and pull one from a hat and send the “winner” a little something designed by me as a Thank You!

drawingTable1

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It’s always fun to see the things that I have envisioned and designed come to market. Here’s a sampling of some of my new works.

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ISIS_1

ISIS_2

These are just a few of my favorite designs that I did for ISIS for Fall 2010. Besides designing the jackets, I selected the fabrics and colors, and designed the embellishments.

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DTV_1

Fun socks make your feet happy! I created the color palette and designs for these (and other) Darn Tough socks for Spring 2011. Available in January.

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ISIS_1

The polka dot print for the Special Edition Giddy Up jersey is my design for Dude Girl for Spring 2011. I’m especially pleased at how the garment design and fit, and print on the ‘Poppy’ jersey on the right turned out.

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Poppy Gall Design Studio

My prints and colors for eyeglass retainers on the left, and webbing for watchbands and keychains on the right for Chums – for delivery soon.

To learn more about Poppy Gall Design Studio click here. To see what’s happening in the studio in real time and to become an interactive part of the design process on facebook click here.

For more examples of work by Poppy Gall Design Studio click here.

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It’s always exciting to finally see a design project come to fruition. Months are spent sketching, selecting fabrics, developing prints, choosing colors, finalizing design details, working with factories, fitting the garments and getting samples made before the product is finally ready to be unveiled before store buyers.

I started working with Kim McElhinney from Dude Girl on a cycling jersey design project back in April. It’s my great pleasure to give you a sneak peak here of some of my new Dude Girl designs. They’re being introduced at the Interbike Show in Las Vegas later this week.

Working with Dude Girl has been rewarding for me on many levels. As an avid lifelong cyclist and former U.S.C.F. racer I find it very difficult to find cycling apparel that takes women seriously by offering graphics, color and fit that work for dedicated cyclists. The idea of wearing Pepto-Bismol pink flower jerseys that are flooding the market lately makes me think I might need a slug of the stuff!

When Kim and I hatched the idea of working together designing something different, something feminine without being flirty or fussy, I was ecstatic! Because she’s a hard-core cyclist, we speak the same language and the ideas flowed effortlessly. Kim’s passion, energy and dedication to her young business reminds me of myself when I started Isis. It’s really fun and inspiring to work with someone like her.

Ever since I first sewed cycling tights and warm-up jackets (out of wool!) on my mother’s sewing machine I’ve yearned to design women’s cycling apparel. My dream has come true! I’m very excited about my first-ever cycling collection, and thank you Kim for giving me the opportunity!

If you’re going to be at Interbike, stop by the Dude Girl booth #4805 and say “hi”!

SS 2

Slvls

Short

All photos: Daphne Hougard Photography

To become an interactive part of Poppy Gall Design Studio on facebook click here.

To see more about Poppy Gall Design Studio services click here.

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One of the services my design studio provides is print design for textiles and other surface applications. I have the pleasure to work with some very talented and inspiring graphic designers. I’ve added a category on my blog called “Prints & Patterns” to showcase my print work and the work of the designers in my group. Today floral designs are the focus. For more information about my studio please visit my website or email me. I’ll be posting more selections of prints as the weeks go on so check back frequently. Please look or be inspired, but don’t use these prints without my permission as they are all copyrighted. Thanks!
Nasturtium
Jungle
Ikat
Seaweed
Kyoto
Mums

One of the services my design studio provides is print design for textiles and other surface applications. I have the pleasure to work with some very talented and inspiring graphic designers. I’ve added a category on my blog called “Prints & Patterns” to showcase my print work and the work of the designers in my group. Today floral designs are the focus. For more information about my studio please visit my website or email me. I’ll be posting more selections of prints as the weeks go on so check back frequently. Please look and be inspired, but don’t use these prints without my permission as they are all copyrighted. Thanks!

MultiNast

Nasturtium

Vines

Jungle

Isis_IKAT_6

Ikat

Seaweed

Seaweed

PeonyBW_mock2

Kyoto

Mums

Mums

Grass&Flowers

Grassland

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Sweater Design – An Updated Classic
How does one go about updating a classic style like an Aran knit cardigan? This a challenge as posed to me recently. I love bobble and cable stitches but wanted to design something that didn’t look like it came out of my grandmother’s sweater chest.
I made the center front placket and collar quite wide to give it a more current look. A sweatshirt-type kangaroo pocket with a decorative vine design stitched in red adds to the trend-right look.
I wanted to keep the classic Aran feel by using natural ecru wool, but liked the idea of adding a little pop of color here and there. I decided to add some simple hand embroidered accent stitches – running stitches and cross-stitches – in red yarn for the color. I also stitched on the faux-horn buttons using the red yarn.
I like the touch of the wide woven ribbon on the inside placket; it can be hidden when the sweater is buttoned or peek out when partially closed. The chocolate floral design adds a sweet touch without being too saccharine. For more about my sweater design go to my website or look in the “Knit & Purl” category on my blog.

How does one go about updating a classic style like an Aran knit cardigan? This a challenge as posed to me recently. I love bobble and cable stitches but wanted to design something that didn’t look like it came out of my grandmother’s sweater chest.

copyright Poppy Gall

I made the center front placket and collar quite wide to give it a more current look. A sweatshirt-type kangaroo pocket with a decorative vine design stitched in red adds to the trend-right look.

Pocket

I wanted to keep the classic Aran feel by using natural ecru wool, but liked the idea of adding a little pop of color here and there. I decided to add some simple hand embroidered accent stitches – running stitches and cross-stitches – in red yarn for the color. I also stitched on the faux-horn buttons using the red yarn.

IMG_1718

I like the touch of the wide woven ribbon on the inside placket; it can be hidden when the sweater is buttoned or peek out when partially closed. The chocolate floral design adds a sweet touch without being too saccharine. For more about my sweater design go to my website or look in the “Knit & Purl” category on my blog.

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I’ve got polka dots on my mind this week – maybe because I posted those fun photos of the polka dotted bicycle frame and cycling jersey on my blog Monday, or because a friend showed me her favorite silver polka dot earrings at a party the other night?  Or perhaps because I’m seeing polka dots in the stores on everything from rubber boots to stockings, bed linens to coat linings, teapots to dog collars? I love the way they are always fresh and happy, and depending on how the design is colored they can be anything from super playful to sophisticated.
One of the services my design studio provides are textile prints for clients. Here are some of my original print variations on the polka dot theme to chase away the winter blahs. Looking at the final art, I wonder if I’ve been looking at the dish drain too much lately? Time to get out and ski! What would you like to see these print designs used for?

I’ve got polka dots on my mind this week – maybe because I posted those fun photos of the polka dotted bicycle frame and cycling jersey on my blog Monday, or because a friend showed me her favorite silver polka dot earrings at a party the other night?  Or perhaps because I’m seeing polka dots in the stores on everything from rubber boots to stockings, bed linens to coat linings, teapots to dog collars? I love the way they are always fresh and happy, and depending on how the design is colored they can be anything from super playful to sophisticated.

One of the services my design studio provides are textile prints for clients. Here are some of my original print variations on the polka dot theme to chase away the winter blahs. Looking at the final art, I wonder if I’ve been looking at the dish drain too much lately? Time to get out and ski! What would you like to see these print designs used for?


dots copyright Poppy Gall

dots2 copyright Poppy Gall

dots w/ ice copyright Poppy Gall

dots4 copyright Poppy Gall

Dots4 copyright Poppy Gall

Dots5 copyright Poppy Gall

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