Poppy Gall Design Studio

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Shades of browns and greys dominate the landscape around my part of the world this time of year. In the spirit of embracing these tones (as I have no upcoming plans to escape from them) I’ve  composed some color palettes and then worked the colors back into my print designs. This is actually one way I color up prints for clients. I like mixing warm and cool shades together. As you can see the bleak hues of November can be quite sophisticated!

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To see more color palettes click.here

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I was pleased to receive a copy of Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting by Eundeok Kim, Ann Marie Fiore and Hyejeong Kim, in the mail this week and to see one of my trend boards featured and to have my studio mentioned.

The text is designed to introduce undergraduate students to the central concepts of fashion trend analysis and forecasting. The book demonstrates how and why forecasting is vital to successful product and brand development. It covers such topics as the impact of fashion consumption on the environment, economic development, and socio-cultural change, as well as the impact of social responsibility and the digital consumer on current fashion trends.

Here is the original trend board:

Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting is published by Berg Publishers

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I have tons of knitting yarn. More yarn than I can probably use in my lifetime. My skeins fill baskets, bins and burlap sacks. I have a dozen unfinished projects spanning decades. I don’t need any more yarn. I made a pact with myself about ten years ago; I was going to knit it all up before I started acquiring more.

I reined in my yarn enthusiasm and knit up a lot of what I had. I resisted setting foot into yarn shops. I made a nice dent in my hoard. One day, two years ago, everything changed. I entered a swanky knitting store and was overwhelmed by how much the knitting world had changed while I was ignoring it. There I found tantalizing blends of alpaca, silk and mohair in sumptuous textures and delicious colors! How could I resist knitting up a few things using these lovely yarns? My resolve was blown.

The multi-colored and subtly variegated yarns held a special allure. One can no longer only associate variegated yarns with hideous cheap acrylic. The new breeds are truly luscious. As a dyer, I was curious about how color is applied to these many-hued skeins. I asked a number of dyers at the Vermont Sheep and Wool Festival about the ins and outs of “hand painting” yarns and gleaned a rough idea of how to go about it.

Last Saturday morning after looking through my color palettes for some color inspiration I dug out my dyes and dusty dye pot and five random skeins of natural colored wool and launched into my first attempt at hand painting yarn. It’s a lot more time consuming than dying solid colored yarn and makes a lot more mess. But I loved mixing the colors and applying them to the yarn. I am surprised and pleased with the results of my messy morning!

The “painted” skeins look a little scary-Grateful-Dead-tie-dye-ish in this state but once the colors merge in the dye pot and the skeins are re-wound the stripes disappear.

Once they  are-wound the tie-dyed look disappears.

Finished hand painted skeins. There are two different types of yarn, and each skein is slightly different from the other.

For more color inspiration click here. To “LIke” Poppy Gall Design Studio facebook page click here.

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From a series of hand knit wool sweaters and accessories made in Nepal, designed by Poppy Gall Design Studio.

3 Sweaters

To see more work by Poppy Gall Design Studio click here.

Like” Poppy Gall Design on facebook.

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Most of the projects I work on take about 18 months to come to market and for me to be able to show them in my portfolio. By the time the products are for sale in stores I have often “forgotten” about them!

This was not the case with the women’s cycling kits I designed for a fundraiser for Stowe Unfunded Sports. Project coordinator Pascale Savard and I started working on the jersey and short concepts in late May and they were delivered at the beginning of August. That’s super fast in my world!

The design direction demanded that the kit be feminine, sporty and somewhat retro – but NOT “girly”. Pascale is in love with Pantone 293, so that is the blue color we chose for the main body. I used a lot of white, making the kit both visible and feminine. 70’s cycling jerseys inspired the striping and makes for a clean look. The big Stowe logo adds an identifiable and retro touch. My biggest challenge was balancing the placement and colors of the sponsor’s logos on the jersey side panels, sleeves and back pockets.

Proceeds from the sales will go to help fund cross-country running, Nordic skiing, golf and the alpine ski teams in the Stowe schools. Kits are available while they last at H.E. Shaw’s General Store in Stowe, Vermont.

Stowe Kit

collar

To become an interactive part of Poppy Gall Design Studio on facebook click here.

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PajamaGram recently launched a small collection of specialty pajamas designed to help people who have difficulty sleeping get a good night’s rest. They selected Poppy Gall Design Studio to design the new 8-straight Performance Sleepwear collection for women. We started the design process over a year ago so it’s nice to see everything finalized now and available to consumers.

Having never designed pajamas, I found the similarities between designing technical layering pieces for active users and pajamas was an easy transition. Selecting a weightless breathable and wicking fabric to help control temperature fluctuations was essential. Well placed flat seaming was critical to avoid any pressure points or irritation while in sleep positions. Precise styling was needed to avoid “princess and the pea” conditions caused by twisted or binding fabric. The pajamas also had to be pretty.

We added some nice finishing touches. A small pocket holds an aromatherapy packet to enhance relaxation. Smooth heat transfer labels are inside the neckline instead of  scratchy ones. A calming watery print in a soft blue was used.

A note from a satisfied customer makes me feel as though we accomplished what we set out to do

“I’m going through hot flashes at night and these pj’s absolutely relieved some of the frustrations with that. It really does wick moisture away from my skin and is much more comfortable than my 100% cotton pj’s. Also I have Fibromyalgia and the softness of the fabric along with the soft seams and lack of tags made a real difference for me. I love this!”

I’d like to thank my Poppy Gall Design facebook followers for ideas and testing fabric during the design process.

For more 8-straight Sleepwear click here.

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Click to see more work from Poppy Gall Design Studio

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The Tibetan tiger rug that I designed last fall and had hand woven in Kathmandu arrived bundled in burlap.

Tiger Rug rolled

As I slit open the package, I was excited and anxious at the same time. Did the weavers follow my design exactly and match the wool colors I requested? Would it “work” in my living space?

Tiger Rug 2

As I rolled out the carpet, I was delighted! It is as wonderful and lush as I’d imagined it. And it “works”!

Tiger Rug Border

To see more about my inspiration and design process for the tiger rug click here.

Tiger Rug 1

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The Shoe Horn Boutique will be celebrating the launch of Darn Tough Vermont’s newest line of wool socks, designed by Poppy Gall Design Studio tomorrow evening April 7 between 5:00 and 7:00.  I will discuss my design and color inspiration for the Spring 2011 collection.

Ric Cabot of Cabot Hosiery, makers of Darn Tough Socks, will talk about the process of making Darn Tough socks locally in his nearby Northfield, Vermont sock mill.

The party is free and open to the public so bring your friends! Enjoy refreshments and music, and enter a raffle to win a free pair of Darn Tough Socks.

The Shoe Horn (one of my favorite shops!) is next to Onion River Sports on Langdon Street in Montpelier, VT. Here are a few pictures of my best selling design for spring called “Good Witch”. You’ll need to stop by tomorrow evening to see them all! Hope to see you there!

Click to see more of my  Design Studio Portfolio.

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I used a delicate Asian peony motif to adorn a collection of seamless body layer – a bra, brief, and long underwear bottoms and tops, designed to be worn as performance layering pieces. Because I chose a wicking yarn that  has a slight shimmer to it, the pieces transition well from active/outdoor use to everyday and evening wear. Imagine this cami under a pretty cashmere sweater. The comfort of wearing a garment with no seams (literally!) is another plus!

Click to see more of my  Design Studio Portfolio.

peony cami-brf

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I designed this practical and sporty boiled wool cut & sew sweater jacket for A/W 10/11. The tuck detail on the chest and the print inner collar elevate it from the ordinary. I couldn’t resist adding a little cap to go with it! Click to see more of my Design Studio Portfolio.

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806306-winpea-f10 copy

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This reversible down jacket evolved out of my desire to create one jacket with two distinctly different looks that could be flipped one way or the other depending on the wearer’s mood. Both sides needed to me mountain friendly and could transition easily into town either way. Curved quilt lines and a shiny face fabric give the solid side it’s interest, while the the other side has a two-tone print, stormflapped front zipper and pockets and antique metal snaps giving it a spunkier look. Given the recent state of the economy a 2-in-1 jacket seemed like a no brainer!

For more of my work visit my Design Studio Portfolio.

Become an interactive part of my design studio on facebook.

Poppy Gall Design Studio

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Tasked with designing a lightweight wool knit sweater hoodie, I started out by playing with simple stripes. I then randomly broke the stripes up into small squares and rectangles altering them into something interesting and playful, yet maintaining their simplicity.

The blue/green colorway wears well with jeans thanks to the navy and chocolate in the pattern. The Lipstick and natural colors pop on a chocolate background on the other version.

To see more of Poppy Gall Design Studio portfolio click here.

©Poppy Gall 2011

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©Poppy Gall 2011

To learn about day-to-day activity in my studio like” Poppy Gall Design facebook page.

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Named after Wilson Picket’s R&B hit ‘Mustang Sally’ I designed this multi purpose jacket to  ”Ride, Sally, Ride!”.  Ride through all sorts of temperature fluctuations and precipitous weather events that is, while still looking good  - regardless if you’re riding the lift, around in your late model Ford Mustang or the one in your paddock.

The street savvy tweedy waterproof fabric is feminized by interesting vertical and horizontal embroidery and pleat placement. What you can’t see here is the pop of color in the floral quilted insulated lining. Designed for Isis for F/W 2010/2011. To see more of my portfolio click here.

MustangSally

To see what sort of projects Poppy Gall Design Studio is working on via facebook click here.

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Spiral Banner

I was leafing through an old portfolio the other day and came across photos of a site specific art installation that I made a number of winters ago. Inspired by Buddhist prayer flags I’d seen in Nepal, I wanted to create something that transferred some of their colorful and spiritual motion.

I stitched a 45” x 90” saffron colored satin banner (reminiscent of the color of Tibetan monk’s robes) with an exuberant magenta spiral which I hung in a tree at a local cross-country ski center. I chose a spot where four trails intersect and skiers stop to catch their breath, chat or decide which trail to take. It’s a nice place of convergence.

I’ve always been fascinated by the visible patterns made by wind and water and am particularly drawn to whirlpools and spirals. Typically a vortex pulls into itself toward the center. However I draw my spirals from the center outward in an open gesture. By adding “droplets” being flung from the spiral I indicated motion, energy and freedom.

My banner caught wind and sunlight all winter long and warmed up the surrounding blue-grey environment. Part of the art experience I envisioned was having skiers unexpectedly discover and ponder it deep in the woods.

SpiralBanner2©Poppy Gall 2011

SpiralBanner©Poppy Gall 2011

To see more of my artwork click here.

Click here to “like” Poppy Gall Design facebook page.

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I was flattered when Marcus Woolf from SNEWS interviewed me recently for O.R.D. Outdoor Retailer Daily, the esteemed trade show publication of the Outdoor Retailer trade show. Here’s the complete interview from the January 22, 2011 issue. Thanks Marcus!

PoppyGall©PennieRand

Poppy Gall

A woman’s apparel pioneer talks technology, green fibers, and other design trends driving the future of outdoor clothing

As co-founder of Isis, the first U.S. women’s outdoor apparel brand, Poppy Gall helped revolutionize outdoor clothing for women, elevating the sense of style without compromising fit and performance. She stepped away from Isis a year ago to launch her own design studio, and you can see her new creations on the show floor at companies such as Darn Tough and Chums. She tells us about her design inspirations.

What sparked you to leave Isis and start your own design studio?

Internal changes at Isis, which compounded with the economic climate eventually led to Kellwood acquiring the company. Once the company decided to start looking for a buyer, it gave me the freedom to move on and start my design studio.

What has been the greatest challenge in making that move? And what has been the greatest reward?

I’ve spent the last year regaining the life balance that I lost while growing Isis. It’s been a challenge to recalibrate after working 60+ hours a week. The greatest reward has been the tremendous outpouring of support that I have received for my new studio from the Outdoor Industry community.

What are your major sources of inspiration for design?

I’ve been asked this question a lot over the years and it even prompted me to start blogging about my color and design inspirations (http://www.PoppyGall.com/blog). As an active user of outdoor gear, I am always thinking of ways to make apparel perform better in the environment for which it is intended, whether it is through fabrication, features or fit. My print and color work is influenced by what I see in the natural, fashion and art worlds.

What are a few of the major trends you see coming in apparel design — colors, silhouettes, fabrications, etc.?

The last couple of seasons have made it tough for apparel brands to innovate because of the economy and issues with Asian manufacturers; “safe” design has overridden adventurous design. Now with the economy turning around, I foresee more use of eco-friendly and natural fibers, lighter weight fabrics and insulations, and design being pushed by improved laser-cutting and bonding technologies. Outdoor wear that can cross into urban lifestyles is still an important trend.

What are the best words of wisdom you’ve received?

I had a writing professor once who stressed that one should write about what they know, to be 100% honest and authentic – no bullshitting; otherwise you’ll be called on it. I find this bit of advice also applies to good design and good working relationships.

What are you most proud of?

Right now, I am honored to have created Isis, the first U.S. niche brand that specialized in women-only outdoor apparel.

Where is your favorite place to escape to?

For inspiration and time to clear my head, I like to escape into the mountains to ski and hike. When I want to create, I escape to my snug timber frame studio that my husband built for me on our property.

What was the worst job you ever had?

Loading chairlifts for the Alpine Slide at Bromley Ski Area. Lifties had to wipe slugs off the track every morning with old towels before opening time.

What is the most positive development you see happening in the outdoor industry?

It’s very exciting to see so many more women in leadership positions, and women-specific products than ever before in our industry. I believe that it will be these women who will help the industry attract young people to outdoor lifestyles and products. I am also hopeful that suppliers of earth-friendly materials, and the manufacturers who use them, will thrive. I also think Project O.R. is brilliant!

What person would you most like go on a hike with, and why?

Could it be a group hike? Rachel Carson, John Muir, Edward Abbey, Terry Tempest Williams, Gary Snyder, Dolores LaChapelle, because their work and writings as advocates for the earth have deeply affected my perceptions of the natural world.

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