For me, one of the highlights of the show was being included as one of the judges for Project O.R. – a competition for design students that celebrates the functionality, originality and design of outdoor recreation clothing.

Six design students from top design programs from around the country were chosen for the competition. On the first morning of the show they were handed a design brief requiring them to produce a prototype of an innovative, original and functional backcountry ski pant for women using performance and eco-friendly materials – within 48 hours! Contestants chose the latest technical fabrics and trims provided by exhibiting industry suppliers.

Because of my experiences of designing such pants for Isis, I was well aware of the multiple challenges this assignment provided for the designers. Problems such as how a woman relieves herself in the backcountry without undressing, how to provide adequate venting, what kind of fabrics to use to help regulate fluctuating body temperatures, where to place pockets so they won’t interfere with a harness etc., would need to be resolved.

Later in the day a panel of judges, comprised of five industry insiders, reviewed the designer’s initial concept sketches and storyboards, fabric selections and garment features and made suggestions that would help improve the functionality of the designs.

Margaret Mussman's storyboard and concept sketches

After the judge’s critique the designers made changes and settled into their personal work stations equipped with sewing machines, cutting tables, tools and pressing equipment to start making their patterns and building their prototypes.

Julia Mangelsdorf starts drafting her pattern

Paula Lam working with her pattern pieces

Lauren Mellor applies seam tape to the inside of her pant

When the judges checked back in with the students, less than 48 hours later, they all had garments ready to present to us. I for one was totally blown away by their ability to pull together such well thought-out and finished garments in such a short timeframe. Grace under pressure!

Project O.R. is a truly wonderful opportunity to introduce students to the Outdoor industry. The beauty is that they can tap directly into knowledgable people who work for well-known apparel and hard goods brands and fabric suppliers, because all those people are all under one roof during the show.

Margaret Mussman from the University of Cincinnati was the undisputed winner of the contest. Her exceptionally detailed bib pant showed a clear understanding of the end-user and her needs in the backcountry. The pant was beautifully constructed – mostly using Bemis adhesive tape, instead of stitching, to bond waterproof breathable stretch fabrics together. Margaret, a former competitive snowboarder imaginatively used her snow sport experience to influence her design.

Margaret Mussman with her winning design celebrates with a glass of champagne

A few of the designers had little or no prior exposure to skiing. It was impressive how all the contestants took the judges first feedback to heart and made some extraordinary changes to their initial designs and fabric selections. All of them created a pant that surpassed their original concept sketches. It was a real pleasure to be in the company of such talent!

Lauren Mellor's pant was highly praised for it's interesting fabric selection and forward styling

Kelsee Morefield's pant included a discreet front to back zipper system, an efficient system for when nature calls.

Jennifer Hirsch's ambitious design took it's inspiration from fresh ski tracks.

To “Like” Poppy Gall Design Studio on facebook  - click here  

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Poppy Gall

A woman’s apparel pioneer talks technology, green fibers, and other design trends driving the future of outdoor clothing

As co-founder of Isis, the first U.S. women’s outdoor apparel brand, Poppy Gall helped revolutionize outdoor clothing for women, elevating the sense of style without compromising fit and performance. She stepped away from Isis a year ago to launch her own design studio, and you can see her new creations on the show floor at companies such as Darn Tough and Chums. She tells us about her design inspirations.

What sparked you to leave Isis and start your own design studio?

Internal changes at Isis, which compounded with the economic climate eventually led to Kellwood acquiring the company. Once the company decided to start looking for a buyer, it gave me the freedom to move on and start my design studio.

What has been the greatest challenge in making that move? And what has been the greatest reward?

I’ve spent the last year regaining the life balance that I lost while growing Isis. It’s been a challenge to recalibrate after working 60+ hours a week. The greatest reward has been the tremendous outpouring of support that I have received for my new studio from the Outdoor Industry community.

What are your major sources of inspiration for design?

I’ve been asked this question a lot over the years and it even prompted me to start blogging about my color and design inspirations (http://www.PoppyGall.com/blog). As an active user of outdoor gear, I am always thinking of ways to make apparel perform better in the environment for which it is intended, whether it is through fabrication, features or fit. My print and color work is influenced by what I see in the natural, fashion and art worlds.

What are a few of the major trends you see coming in apparel design — colors, silhouettes, fabrications, etc.?

The last couple of seasons have made it tough for apparel brands to innovate because of the economy and issues with Asian manufacturers; “safe” design has overridden adventurous design. Now with the economy turning around, I foresee more use of eco-friendly and natural fibers, lighter weight fabrics and insulations, and design being pushed by improved laser-cutting and bonding technologies. Outdoor wear that can cross into urban lifestyles is still an important trend.

What are the best words of wisdom you’ve received?

I had a writing professor once who stressed that one should write about what they know, to be 100% honest and authentic – no bullshitting; otherwise you’ll be called on it. I find this bit of advice also applies to good design and good working relationships.

What are you most proud of?

Right now, I am honored to have created Isis, the first U.S. niche brand that specialized in women-only outdoor apparel.

Where is your favorite place to escape to?

For inspiration and time to clear my head, I like to escape into the mountains to ski and hike. When I want to create, I escape to my snug timber frame studio that my husband built for me on our property.

What was the worst job you ever had?

Loading chairlifts for the Alpine Slide at Bromley Ski Area. Lifties had to wipe slugs off the track every morning with old towels before opening time.

What is the most positive development you see happening in the outdoor industry?

It’s very exciting to see so many more women in leadership positions, and women-specific products than ever before in our industry. I believe that it will be these women who will help the industry attract young people to outdoor lifestyles and products. I am also hopeful that suppliers of earth-friendly materials, and the manufacturers who use them, will thrive. I also think Project O.R. is brilliant!

What person would you most like go on a hike with, and why?

Could it be a group hike? Rachel Carson, John Muir, Edward Abbey, Terry Tempest Williams, Gary Snyder, Dolores LaChapelle, because their work and writings as advocates for the earth have deeply affected my perceptions of the natural world.

For the most part, I design products twelve months before they are shown at trade shows and then it’s another six months before they are available in stores. This makes it a bit tough to show off Poppy Gall Design Studio work right at the time of creation! It’s always exciting to see the polished finished product.

This short work week, I’ve been following up with people that I met at the show and working on project deadlines. I’m putting the finishing touches on my new studio so I can move in next week – if all goes according to plan! I’ve got to find some time to pack for a much anticipated retreat with my family on a remote Adirondack lake.

For those of you who follow my blog know, I’m a sucker for vintage ski postcards, fashions, equipment etc. This silly summer ski postcard makes me smile. The caption on the back reads,

“The scrapings from the artificial ice sheet at the world famous Olympic Arena, Lake Placid, N.Y., furnish a few moments of fun and thoughts of the ski season to come.”

Yes! Bring on the snow – but wait until I have a final dip in that mountain lake !

Enjoy your weekend!

Become an interactive part of our studio by clicking “Like” on Poppy Gall Design facebook page.

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Next week I will be in Salt Lake City at the Outdoor Retailer trade show meeting with clients, visiting with old friends and checking out the latest and greatest new outdoor gear. I’ll be back to blogging the following week.

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P.S. Check out ‘Poppy Gall Design’ facebook page. “Like” it to see what sorts of projects we’re working on and to be an interactive part of the design studio. Thanks!

A WWII-era Argus C-3 Rangefinder camera was a gift to Geoff O’Keeffe from his mother when he was a kid. “I shot rolls and rolls of very bad pictures and used my paper route money to have them developed”, he says. 



More recently, the VP of Global Sourcing for American Recreation Products uses a digital camera to create his images. “Digital has helped me settle down and look. Looking is most of it. Being able to make hundreds of images you can then delete is also great training.”

O’Keeffe’s photographs eloquently capture both East and West. Whether it’s a nature shot or a picture of a human face, one feels the essence of place. This melding of cultures is integral to who Geoff is, and where his interests lie. He works in Asia for three months out of the year. His family roots are in the Rockies and stretch back for generations. He calls Colorado home. He’s a student of Zen. He’s learning to speak mandarin Chinese.

When asked about his artistic process Geoff says that for him, “the best approach is none at all save for silence; empty mind, open eyes.” Zen teacher John Daido Loori’s photographs have inspired his work.

Like so many who’ve followed  in his footsteps, being an outdoors person led Geoff into the Outdoor Industry. “I began going to the Cascades with “Dharma Bums” in my pack in the 1960′s. I started working in the outdoor business in 1976 and have done a variety of things.”

Besides being a photographer, Geoff is also an accomplished woodworker, guitar player and writer. One gets the impression while talking with him that he will never run out of ideas or things to keep him busy.

Geoff’s extended dream vacation is to drive around the west for a year in a Synchro Vanagon with guitars, camera, laptop, books, a Winchester Model 94 30-30 (I forgot to ask that that is for!) and cases of Bordeaux. He’d then move on and spend a year living between Beijing and Shanghai studying Mandarin and Chinese history and culture. He’d then spend a few months in New Orleans, and then Galway. He’d love to live in New York City for six months and would like to visit India and Nepal and Tibet soon. I can’t wait to see the slide show!

4th century Lingyin Si Buddhist temple in Hangzhou, China

This photograph was taken at an iris farm in Boulder, CO.

Red Leaf. Worcester, New York.

Chinese Soldier. Hangzhou, China

The poppy’s were taken outside Geoff’s house in Colorado.

Woman Offering Incense – Lingyin Si Buddhist temple in Hangzhou, China

To see more artist profiles click here.

I will be blogging about more artists within the Outdoor & SnowSports industries in the upcoming weeks. The criteria is that they work within these industries, and that they don’t make art as part of their full-time job. If you are an artist or know someone who is, please drop me a line.

“Like” Poppy Gall Design facebook page to see what sorts of projects we’re working on and to become an interactive part of the studio.

Lately I’ve been wondering how many other people in the Outdoor and SnowSports industries are part-time artists; artists who have non-art-making day jobs? Are there financial analysts or inventory controllers out there who paint? Pack designers or sales reps that are sculptors? Technical engineers who are photographers? Customer service reps who build furniture? Guides who are potters? I thought it would be interesting to search them out and see if there is a correlation between their art and the outdoors. I’m curious to see what they create after quitting time. By asking around I’ve been delighted by the responses and introductions I’ve received.

Starting today I will be profiling interesting and creative artists on a (hopefully) weekly schedule. If you are an artist within these industries, or know someone who is, please drop me a line. I think it will be a fun way to learn about the people that we do business with. How about having an art show at the next Outdoor Retailer or SnowSports trade shows to highlight these artists?

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5″ x 6″ monoprint

To see more of my artwork click here.

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Five design students from around the country were hand-picked from top design programs to produce a garment prototype from scratch within 48 hours.

Once initial garment design sketches were completed, based on a design brief supplied by a panel of industry judges, contestants started cutting and sewing using the latest fabrics, zippers and other clothing components provided by participating supplier exhibitors.

I was pleased to be selected to interview the designers and offer suggestions and answer questions as they worked toward completing their garments. It gave me a close-up look at the how contestants worked at their individual stations equipped with sewing machines, cutting tables, pressing equipment and tools, to build their final prototypes.

Project OR Winter Market competitors were filmed in a reality-competition type format. Video footage can be seen on the Outdoor Retailer website.

As the Outdoor Industry ages I hope that it  can attract young and fresh design talent like the students in Project OR. Wouldn’t it be great if there was a design program that specifically taught students about the technical aspects of the fabrics used in outdoor apparel and how to best design for them? No school program seems to focus on the functional aspects of laminates vs. coatings, finishes, wicking etc. as it applies toward outdoor clothing. They’d come into our industry ready to rock and roll!

These photos have just become available thanks to Chip Smith of Soar Communications.