DESIGN INSPIRATION

Imaginative ideas

If you follow my blog regularly you know that I am transfixed by anything with an alpine theme: edelweiss, cowbells, dirndls, snowflakes, schnapps and cuckoo clocks. So when in the midst of my April ski tour in the alps we descended into Zermatt, Switzerland for the night I immediately went out and window shopped. And I do mean “window shop”. Our group had skied from Italy to Zermatt, carrying just what we needed on our backs, staying in mountain huts along the way. Alas, it was impossible for me to fit those amazing hand-stitched pony hide boots with the skier on them, or the equally cool Luis Trenker daisy shoes into my already stuffed pack. But I did get my fix of alpine themed paraphernalia even though I didn’t carry any of it back over the mountains with me!

Lust!

Dynafit skis – love the edelweiss!

hand screened scarves

Sweet bag

Wouldn’t want to get these dirty

So cool!

Swoon!

Bogner in-the-boot stretch pants with retro photos

So many great textiles

These shoes wouldn’t fit in my pack…

Fantastic packaging

Pillow inspired by paper cut design

Matterhorn shaped chocolates

For more about my alpine adventure click here and here.

For more “Alpine Inspiration” check out my Pinterest board here.

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One of the highlights of my recent ski trip traversing the alps from Italy to Switzerland was staying in the new Monte Rosa hut. The old Monte Rosa hut was a lovely stone structure with painted red shutters built in 1940, and is my romantic idea of the perfect mountain refuge. When I caught sight of the sparkling angular architecture of the new hut as I skied down the Grenzglacier I was unexpectedly delighted by what I saw. Called the “Bergkristall” (mountain crystal) it’s modern design blends into its snowy and icy environment.

Built by the Swiss Alpine Club in 2009, it is a wonder of self-sufficiency. Isolated by mountain ranges and glaciers it sits alone at 2,883 meters and is accessible only by skis in winter, and foot in summer. The building’s shiny aluminum clad exterior is broken up by a band of windows and south facing photovoltaic panels. A small supplemental heat and electricity unit runs on rapeseed oil. Meltwater, collected in the summer and stored in a rocky cavern above the hut provides hot and cold water. Waste water is purified in a biological microfiltration plant and uses the grey water for flushing toilets. Surplus water is cleaned and returned to the environment. The new Monte Rosa hut is 90% self- sufficient.

The warm timber framed interior defies it’s cold metal exterior. The supporting timbers in the sunny dining room are digitally carved with lines that resemble the rings of a tree, or the contour lines of a map. The meals served by the hut keepers were surprisingly delicious. Tucked into my wooden bunk and covered with a duvet I slept like a log.

Photos Via

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Easter is one my favorite holidays with it’s promise of re-birth. I swooned when I saw this hen-on-a-basket on the step of an antique shop in Reykjavik – so sweet! It would make a perfect Easter table decoration filled with jelly beans.

My Easter dinner table is not complete without clusters of hand painted Rômanian Easter eggs as the centerpiece. I was fortunate to meet the artisan who made them in her home and to watch her decorate them with amazing skill. Click here to see how they are made along with my photos.

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I am flattered to be included in an article  in the most recent issue of MPD Vision devoted to Autumn 13/Winter 14 trends. The feature, titled “Exploring The Extremes” by Amy Trayford, discusses one of fashion’s hottest influences – extreme sports and the great outdoors. It’s safe to say that none of the runway styles cited in the spread have any resemblance to anything one might remotely wear for extreme outdoor endeavors. They’re pure fun and fashion fantasy. As an outdoor industry insider I’ve witnessed a continuous loop over the years;  designers for outdoor brands look to runway fashion for inspiration, and designers for fashion and luxury brands are drawing ideas from us! Each camp’s interpretations yield interesting and diverse results.

MPD Vision is assembled by one of the world’s leading trend forecasting companies, Mudpie. They have been kind enough to allow me to clip the article and share it here. It includes a nice blip about ISIS and a super short interview with me. Enjoy it and let me know your thoughts on this emerging trend!

 

 

photos and text via: MDP Vision

 

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I’ve always followed fashion designer Stella McCartney’s collaboration with Adidas with a mixture of admiration and confusion. Some of her design details are so superfluous that it seems that they would be a distraction to the wearer if they were to do their sport with any real intensity (think oddly placed and excessively long adjustment straps that flap around, or ski bibs that look impossible to get in or out of in the rest room for example). I may be wrong, but I always think her collections are really designed for the woman who wants to look uber-fashionable at the gym or on the tennis court, but who really isn’t a serious user.

That said I’m pleasantly surprised with her designs for the 2012 British Olympic teams. Her use of a stylized Union flag wrapped around the body is cool looking, though you’d think she would have used a bit more red for impact and national identification. The pale blue looks washed out and soft, and lacks the fiery red of competition.

The functional designs looks really clean and performance driven and thankfully lack the aforementioned superfluous-ness. A fellow designer friend and I wonder if perhaps the technical design team at Adidas helped her out a bit here? We both agree that designing Olympic team uniforms would be a dream job! Please share your thoughts about these kits.

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One thing always leads to another when I’m searching for something on the internet. I get side-tracked and discover things I didn’t even know I wanted to know about! Yesterday I found this amazing ski-themed blouse circa 1957-1960 on the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising’s blog. It’s just too great not to share. Here’s a bit of ski fashion history cribbed right from their blog.

“Until the 1950s, ski wear consisted of baggy woolen pants and knitted sweaters, topped with a bulky wool overcoat. Though warm and functional, these clothes did nothing to flatter the figure. This changed in 1952 with the introduction of Bogner ski pants. Created by Maria Bogner, member of a German skiwear producing family, “Bogners” were a form-fitting ski pant made of wool and a newly developed nylon fiber called Helanca. By 1955, Bogners were available in a variety of bright colors. Because they displayed the muscular curves of both male and female skiers, Bogners were credited with introducing sex appeal to skiing. According to Ski magazine, “Marilyn Monroe, Ingrid Bergman and the Shah of Iran wore them. Henry Ford ordered 15 pairs. Overnight, skiing had been transformed into a sexy and very visible sport.”

 

“Bogners appeared at the perfect moment, just as North Americans were experiencing unprecedented economic prosperity in the wake of World War II. Many individuals with surplus income turned their attention to the serious pursuit of sporting and leisure activities, such as skiing. Widespread interest in skiing was encouraged by simplifications in ski boots, skis and ski lifts, making it easier for a novice to get both up and down the mountain. At the end of the day, skiers could relax at comfortable resort lodgings, which often included spacious rooms for dining and dancing, along with heated outdoor pools. Skiing was now a fashionable activity, no longer limited to those rugged enough to withstand a cold slog through the snow.”

While the Bogner family might have stolen the limelight, there is historical evidence that in Megeve, a collaboration between skiier Emile Allais and the AAllard family brought about the first ski stretch pants. Armand AAllard was a skilled tailor in Megeve and made custom clothing for both on and off the slopes.  Unlike “Bogner” his was a custom not production affair which is why he likely has taken a backseat to the internationaly known ski brand.

The FIDM Museum ski-themed blouse seen here details the daily activity of a stretch pant clad skier on vacation. As you can see from the silk-screened images, actual skiing occupies only a portion of her day. Her brightly colored ski wear is typical of the late 1950s, when retailers offered ski wear in a variety of fashionable colors and patterns. Many urban department stores featured ski boutiques, and in 1959, at least one fashion writer suggested that ski wear would soon be seen both off and on the slopes. Not surprisingly, the slim silhouette of late 1950s ski wear echoed (or vice-versa) the slim pants then seen in casual sportswear.

For more vintage ski fashion click here or follow my “Vintage Winter” boards on Pinterest.

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I’m lucky. It’s 15 minutes from my front door to the bottom of the ski lift. I prefer to ski during the week because I can fit a lot of runs in within a short window of time, and still put in a productive workday.

Skiing on weekends can’t be about making lots of runs because of lift lines. But longer lines are great for socializing and checking out what people are wearing and the gear they’re using; real time trend spotting at it’s best, and great inspiration for my work.

Over the weekend I spotted a couple wearing some fabulous mittens a bit behind me in line. I waited for them at the top of the mountain so I could take a closer look.

Their handcrafted leather mittens are made in the U.S. and are beautifully embellished with intricate beadwork, fringe and fur based on Cree Indian designs. The company name, derived from the Cree word for mittens, is Astis. The mitts are truly works of art.

It turns out that the couple I was chatting with are friends with the owner of Astis and filled me in on their story. I mentioned that I was a designer, and as an aside had designed the Isis jacket the woman was wearing. She told me how much she loves her jacket and that the photographer who took the photos on the hangtag was a friend of theirs. There are far less than seven degrees of separation in the ski world.

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Another Outdoor Retailer trade show has come and gone and I’m back in my studio sifting through meeting notes, sorting business cards and following up on all sorts of leads.

For me, one of the highlights of the show was being included as one of the judges for Project O.R. – a competition for design students that celebrates the functionality, originality and design of outdoor recreation clothing.

Six design students from top design programs from around the country were chosen for the competition. On the first morning of the show they were handed a design brief requiring them to produce a prototype of an innovative, original and functional backcountry ski pant for women using performance and eco-friendly materials – within 48 hours! Contestants chose the latest technical fabrics and trims provided by exhibiting industry suppliers.

Because of my experiences of designing such pants for Isis, I was well aware of the multiple challenges this assignment provided for the designers. Problems such as how a woman relieves herself in the backcountry without undressing, how to provide adequate venting, what kind of fabrics to use to help regulate fluctuating body temperatures, where to place pockets so they won’t interfere with a harness etc., would need to be resolved.

Later in the day a panel of judges, comprised of five industry insiders, reviewed the designer’s initial concept sketches and storyboards, fabric selections and garment features and made suggestions that would help improve the functionality of the designs.

Margaret Mussman's storyboard and concept sketches

After the judge’s critique the designers made changes and settled into their personal work stations equipped with sewing machines, cutting tables, tools and pressing equipment to start making their patterns and building their prototypes.

Julia Mangelsdorf starts drafting her pattern

Paula Lam working with her pattern pieces

Lauren Mellor applies seam tape to the inside of her pant

When the judges checked back in with the students, less than 48 hours later, they all had garments ready to present to us. I for one was totally blown away by their ability to pull together such well thought-out and finished garments in such a short timeframe. Grace under pressure!

Project O.R. is a truly wonderful opportunity to introduce students to the Outdoor industry. The beauty is that they can tap directly into knowledgable people who work for well-known apparel and hard goods brands and fabric suppliers, because all those people are all under one roof during the show.

Margaret Mussman from the University of Cincinnati was the undisputed winner of the contest. Her exceptionally detailed bib pant showed a clear understanding of the end-user and her needs in the backcountry. The pant was beautifully constructed – mostly using Bemis adhesive tape, instead of stitching, to bond waterproof breathable stretch fabrics together. Margaret, a former competitive snowboarder imaginatively used her snow sport experience to influence her design.

Margaret Mussman with her winning design celebrates with a glass of champagne

A few of the designers had little or no prior exposure to skiing. It was impressive how all the contestants took the judges first feedback to heart and made some extraordinary changes to their initial designs and fabric selections. All of them created a pant that surpassed their original concept sketches. It was a real pleasure to be in the company of such talent!

Lauren Mellor's pant was highly praised for it's interesting fabric selection and forward styling

Kelsee Morefield's pant included a discreet front to back zipper system, an efficient system for when nature calls.

Jennifer Hirsch's ambitious design took it's inspiration from fresh ski tracks.

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Here’s an innovative product that I probably won’t see at the Outdoor Retailer Show this week – snowball making gloves!

Have a nice weekend!

Design: Janet Emmelkamp,Utrecht School of the Arts

To “Like” Poppy Gall Design Studio on facebook  - click here

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I’m a sucker for anything with an alpine theme. Naturally I fell in love the Tyrolean twist that Guillaume Henry, designer for French label Carven, infused into his Spring 2012 ready-to-wear and resort collections. It’s modern and sweet and sexy.

A vintage postcard-like scene of alpine chalets against a backdrop of snowy peaks and glaciers adorn this simple dress.

The tee shirt graphic appears to be inspired by folkloric paper cut outs of hearts, flowers and deer.

On closer inspection the print on this dress is a beautiful oversized vintage map.

A nod to traditional lederhosen suspenders complete with decorative hardware similar to that found on leather cowbell collars.

Interestingly placed aforementioned hardware. I might not have placed it on the bust myself!

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Satin, silk, lace and fur echo layers of frost and snow in these dream-like dresses, coats and capes suitable for a New Year’s Eve Snow Ball.

Satin strapless dress, damask coat with satin bow Sassi Hoiford. Sheepskin wrap, Celtic Sheepskin

Bouclé wool and satin bodice dress, bouclé wool coat with floral collar, Bruce Oldfield

Satin jacket with a bustle trimmed with faux fur and matching satin skirt, Angelina Colarusso. Sheepskin wrap, Celtic Sheepskin

Vintage lace paneled dress, vintage lace coat with appliquéd flowers

Satin Spaghetti strap dress, collarless silk coat with train and silk bar at bust, Amanda Wakley. Fur cape, Vlasta Coilu

Images by Carl Bengtsson via Selvedge 

For more New Year’s inspiration click here

 

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My husband and have been invited to a nighttime wedding, on skis, at the top of a mountain this holiday season. It seems a little dull to don our daily skiwear for such a special occasion. I’ve always love skiing in skirts and I plan to pull something together folkloric or Nordic inspired – and warm.

When I suggested that he wear one of these quilted men’s sport coats, my husband scoffed at the price tags, and the look entirely. However, I think the trend of insulated (down or synthetic) button front jackets with lapels is pretty cool. Designers for these high-end brands most likely see the success of the lightweight down sweaters made by popular outdoor brands and are reinventing them.

Getting your ski bum man into a down sport coat, one turn shy of a parka, is another turn closer to a coat and tie – if that’s where you want him to go.

Jacket | $1,495, Barneys, New York

Nylon Quilted Coat | $1,347, Etro, New York

Z Zegna Outerwear | $1,195, zegna.com

Moncler Gamme Bleu Jacket | $2,780, Moncler Boutique, New York

Ralph Lauren Black Label Quilted Down Filled Jacket | $995, mrporter.com

Via: Wall Street Journal

To “like” Poppy Gall Design Studio on facebook click here.

 

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High in the Swiss Alps between 1900 and 1960 indestructible Swiss Army blankets were hand woven in alpine villages from the grey and brown wool of local sheep. The blankets, woven with the characteristic red stripe and white cross were stored in caves for many peaceful decades until synthetic sleeping bags replaced them. Each blanket bears the initials of the maker and the date it was woven. Sometimes a stainless steel coin or seal is woven into the fabric. Each one is unique.

In the Swiss village of Törbel, cobbler Titus Karlen came up with the idea to reuse the blankets by hand stitching them into heavy-duty tote bags and knapsacks. Their leather straps are recycled from straps and belts from the Swiss army.

Family run Karlen Swiss, the largest employer in the village of Törbel, contributes to the local economy by providing jobs to women who would otherwise have to travel beyond the valley for work. Their work is synonymous with Swiss quality and ingenuity.

My passion for Swiss mountain culture (edelweiss, cheese, skiing, cow bells, mountain huts, yodeling) is embodied in the blanket bags. So many aspects of this collection appeal to me; the recycling of vintage, yet new, blankets into practical, rugged and attractive bags and accessories, all bag components are handmade, and that the “hand” of the original craftsperson is evident in each individual piece. Guess what’s on my Christmas list?

 

Photos via Deken - another Swiss company making bags and household items from vintage Swiss Army blankets.

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Last weekend’s jaunt to New York City was just the reinvigorating boost I needed for my creative juices. I was delighted to visit the Met’s new galleries devoted to the Art of the Arab Lands, Turkey, Iran and Central Asia, wander through the Christmas market at Union Square, check out the over-the-top skiwear at Paragon Sports, eat fresh cannoli in Little Italy, meander along the High Line and to wear out my soles walking every street in Soho.

It’s been so warm and snowless in Vermont I’ve been having a hard time believing the holiday season is upon us. In New York people were dining in outdoor cafes and the roses were blooming!

However, the Bergdorf Goodman holiday window displays on 5th Avenue nudged me into the spirit. They are absolutely magical and it was worth ogling them shoulder to shoulder with the throngs of onlookers.

This year’s theme is “Carnival of the Animals“. Each mannequin is draped with the most exquisite couture dress and surrounded by multitudes of antique and hand crafted animals. Some are taxidermy intricately hand decorated with beading, sumptuous fabrics, papier-mâché, paint or needlework. I could have spent an hour with my nose pressed to each window and still not have seen every intricate detail!

Built around a vintage collection of mixed-metal birds and jungle animals, “The Brass Menagerie” is set in a stylized tropical forest of metal and mirror and glimmers with leafy foliage of brass and steel.  Within this forest is a fantasy recording studio, with vintage microphones and a brass “primate” jazz combo.  The floor is covered several inches deep with a secret quantity of copper pennies and hundreds of fishing lures hang from the walls and ceiling.  For this window, a special dress was created by Naeem Khan.

“Breaking the Ice” is my favorite window.  It invites viewers to a mid-afternoon arctic garden party whose guests include “couture plush” animals such as polar bears, a moose, an arctic mountain goat, a seal, and a of pair wolves.  All the animals have been upholstered in luxe white textiles and appliquéd with icy crystals, beads, and sequins.  A Baccarat chandelier adds luster.  The party hostess is the focus of attention in her specially designed dress and one-of-a-kind cape, all by J. Mendel.

Completely encrusted with hand-cut Italian mosaic tile, this intensely blue window is truly an undersea fantasy.  A single mannequin, in a seashell dress from the Alexander McQueen Spring 2012 collection, appears to be floating amid a massive collection of mosaic sea creatures. Everything is highly patterned, with swirling textures and oceanic colors. The ocean floor is dotted with a treasure chest worth of jewelry. “Testing the Waters” is quite the aquatic triumph as its production was 10 months in the making and is the most labor-intensive single window display in Bergdorf Goodman history.

“Teacher’s Pets” is an inspiration for book artists as it takes viewers inside a 3-dimensional paper classroom filled with black and white paper animals, including a life-sized paper zebra, ostrich, panda bear, aardvark, white peacock, and more.  As the “students” pose within a cascade of zoological textbooks, the teacher – dressed in a black and white lace Marchesa gown – presides over the paper bestiary.  Noted New York calligrapher, Bernard Maisner, provided hand-lettered labels, in Latin, for all the animals.

In the final window, “Artists and Models,” a diverse collection of wood and leather folk-art animals from all continents gathers together.  The setting is a sculptor’s studio out of a folk tale, with an enormous assemblage of wooden creatures and woodworkers hand tools.  A mannequin, dressed in a mélange of designers, assumes the role of sculptor, assisted by several antique wooden artists’ models and by a quartet of antic leather monkeys.

 Bravo to David Hoey, Senior Director of Visual Presentation at Bergdorf’s and his team who devote an entire year to the production of the holiday windows! This qualifies as a dream job!

Info about the windows from 5th/58th. The full window photos were taken by Ricky Zehavi. I took the detailed shots and wish I’d taken more!

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