DESIGN INSPIRATION

Imaginative ideas

Another Outdoor Retailer trade show has come and gone and I’m back in my studio sifting through meeting notes, sorting business cards and following up on all sorts of leads.

For me, one of the highlights of the show was being included as one of the judges for Project O.R. – a competition for design students that celebrates the functionality, originality and design of outdoor recreation clothing.

Six design students from top design programs from around the country were chosen for the competition. On the first morning of the show they were handed a design brief requiring them to produce a prototype of an innovative, original and functional backcountry ski pant for women using performance and eco-friendly materials – within 48 hours! Contestants chose the latest technical fabrics and trims provided by exhibiting industry suppliers.

Because of my experiences of designing such pants for Isis, I was well aware of the multiple challenges this assignment provided for the designers. Problems such as how a woman relieves herself in the backcountry without undressing, how to provide adequate venting, what kind of fabrics to use to help regulate fluctuating body temperatures, where to place pockets so they won’t interfere with a harness etc., would need to be resolved.

Later in the day a panel of judges, comprised of five industry insiders, reviewed the designer’s initial concept sketches and storyboards, fabric selections and garment features and made suggestions that would help improve the functionality of the designs.

Margaret Mussman's storyboard and concept sketches

After the judge’s critique the designers made changes and settled into their personal work stations equipped with sewing machines, cutting tables, tools and pressing equipment to start making their patterns and building their prototypes.

Julia Mangelsdorf starts drafting her pattern

Paula Lam working with her pattern pieces

Lauren Mellor applies seam tape to the inside of her pant

When the judges checked back in with the students, less than 48 hours later, they all had garments ready to present to us. I for one was totally blown away by their ability to pull together such well thought-out and finished garments in such a short timeframe. Grace under pressure!

Project O.R. is a truly wonderful opportunity to introduce students to the Outdoor industry. The beauty is that they can tap directly into knowledgable people who work for well-known apparel and hard goods brands and fabric suppliers, because all those people are all under one roof during the show.

Margaret Mussman from the University of Cincinnati was the undisputed winner of the contest. Her exceptionally detailed bib pant showed a clear understanding of the end-user and her needs in the backcountry. The pant was beautifully constructed – mostly using Bemis adhesive tape, instead of stitching, to bond waterproof breathable stretch fabrics together. Margaret, a former competitive snowboarder imaginatively used her snow sport experience to influence her design.

Margaret Mussman with her winning design celebrates with a glass of champagne

A few of the designers had little or no prior exposure to skiing. It was impressive how all the contestants took the judges first feedback to heart and made some extraordinary changes to their initial designs and fabric selections. All of them created a pant that surpassed their original concept sketches. It was a real pleasure to be in the company of such talent!

Lauren Mellor's pant was highly praised for it's interesting fabric selection and forward styling

Kelsee Morefield's pant included a discreet front to back zipper system, an efficient system for when nature calls.

Jennifer Hirsch's ambitious design took it's inspiration from fresh ski tracks.

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Here’s an innovative product that I probably won’t see at the Outdoor Retailer Show this week – snowball making gloves!

Have a nice weekend!

Design: Janet Emmelkamp,Utrecht School of the Arts

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I’m a sucker for anything with an alpine theme. Naturally I fell in love the Tyrolean twist that Guillaume Henry, designer for French label Carven, infused into his Spring 2012 ready-to-wear and resort collections. It’s modern and sweet and sexy.

A vintage postcard-like scene of alpine chalets against a backdrop of snowy peaks and glaciers adorn this simple dress.

The tee shirt graphic appears to be inspired by folkloric paper cut outs of hearts, flowers and deer.

On closer inspection the print on this dress is a beautiful oversized vintage map.

A nod to traditional lederhosen suspenders complete with decorative hardware similar to that found on leather cowbell collars.

Interestingly placed aforementioned hardware. I might not have placed it on the bust myself!

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Satin, silk, lace and fur echo layers of frost and snow in these dream-like dresses, coats and capes suitable for a New Year’s Eve Snow Ball.

Satin strapless dress, damask coat with satin bow Sassi Hoiford. Sheepskin wrap, Celtic Sheepskin

Bouclé wool and satin bodice dress, bouclé wool coat with floral collar, Bruce Oldfield

Satin jacket with a bustle trimmed with faux fur and matching satin skirt, Angelina Colarusso. Sheepskin wrap, Celtic Sheepskin

Vintage lace paneled dress, vintage lace coat with appliquéd flowers

Satin Spaghetti strap dress, collarless silk coat with train and silk bar at bust, Amanda Wakley. Fur cape, Vlasta Coilu

Images by Carl Bengtsson via Selvedge 

For more New Year’s inspiration click here

 

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My husband and have been invited to a nighttime wedding, on skis, at the top of a mountain this holiday season. It seems a little dull to don our daily skiwear for such a special occasion. I’ve always love skiing in skirts and I plan to pull something together folkloric or Nordic inspired – and warm.

When I suggested that he wear one of these quilted men’s sport coats, my husband scoffed at the price tags, and the look entirely. However, I think the trend of insulated (down or synthetic) button front jackets with lapels is pretty cool. Designers for these high-end brands most likely see the success of the lightweight down sweaters made by popular outdoor brands and are reinventing them.

Getting your ski bum man into a down sport coat, one turn shy of a parka, is another turn closer to a coat and tie – if that’s where you want him to go.

Jacket | $1,495, Barneys, New York

Nylon Quilted Coat | $1,347, Etro, New York

Z Zegna Outerwear | $1,195, zegna.com

Moncler Gamme Bleu Jacket | $2,780, Moncler Boutique, New York

Ralph Lauren Black Label Quilted Down Filled Jacket | $995, mrporter.com

Via: Wall Street Journal

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High in the Swiss Alps between 1900 and 1960 indestructible Swiss Army blankets were hand woven in alpine villages from the grey and brown wool of local sheep. The blankets, woven with the characteristic red stripe and white cross were stored in caves for many peaceful decades until synthetic sleeping bags replaced them. Each blanket bears the initials of the maker and the date it was woven. Sometimes a stainless steel coin or seal is woven into the fabric. Each one is unique.

In the Swiss village of Törbel, cobbler Titus Karlen came up with the idea to reuse the blankets by hand stitching them into heavy-duty tote bags and knapsacks. Their leather straps are recycled from straps and belts from the Swiss army.

Family run Karlen Swiss, the largest employer in the village of Törbel, contributes to the local economy by providing jobs to women who would otherwise have to travel beyond the valley for work. Their work is synonymous with Swiss quality and ingenuity.

My passion for Swiss mountain culture (edelweiss, cheese, skiing, cow bells, mountain huts, yodeling) is embodied in the blanket bags. So many aspects of this collection appeal to me; the recycling of vintage, yet new, blankets into practical, rugged and attractive bags and accessories, all bag components are handmade, and that the “hand” of the original craftsperson is evident in each individual piece. Guess what’s on my Christmas list?

 

Photos via Deken - another Swiss company making bags and household items from vintage Swiss Army blankets.

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Last weekend’s jaunt to New York City was just the reinvigorating boost I needed for my creative juices. I was delighted to visit the Met’s new galleries devoted to the Art of the Arab Lands, Turkey, Iran and Central Asia, wander through the Christmas market at Union Square, check out the over-the-top skiwear at Paragon Sports, eat fresh cannoli in Little Italy, meander along the High Line and to wear out my soles walking every street in Soho.

It’s been so warm and snowless in Vermont I’ve been having a hard time believing the holiday season is upon us. In New York people were dining in outdoor cafes and the roses were blooming!

However, the Bergdorf Goodman holiday window displays on 5th Avenue nudged me into the spirit. They are absolutely magical and it was worth ogling them shoulder to shoulder with the throngs of onlookers.

This year’s theme is “Carnival of the Animals“. Each mannequin is draped with the most exquisite couture dress and surrounded by multitudes of antique and hand crafted animals. Some are taxidermy intricately hand decorated with beading, sumptuous fabrics, papier-mâché, paint or needlework. I could have spent an hour with my nose pressed to each window and still not have seen every intricate detail!

Built around a vintage collection of mixed-metal birds and jungle animals, “The Brass Menagerie” is set in a stylized tropical forest of metal and mirror and glimmers with leafy foliage of brass and steel.  Within this forest is a fantasy recording studio, with vintage microphones and a brass “primate” jazz combo.  The floor is covered several inches deep with a secret quantity of copper pennies and hundreds of fishing lures hang from the walls and ceiling.  For this window, a special dress was created by Naeem Khan.

“Breaking the Ice” is my favorite window.  It invites viewers to a mid-afternoon arctic garden party whose guests include “couture plush” animals such as polar bears, a moose, an arctic mountain goat, a seal, and a of pair wolves.  All the animals have been upholstered in luxe white textiles and appliquéd with icy crystals, beads, and sequins.  A Baccarat chandelier adds luster.  The party hostess is the focus of attention in her specially designed dress and one-of-a-kind cape, all by J. Mendel.

Completely encrusted with hand-cut Italian mosaic tile, this intensely blue window is truly an undersea fantasy.  A single mannequin, in a seashell dress from the Alexander McQueen Spring 2012 collection, appears to be floating amid a massive collection of mosaic sea creatures. Everything is highly patterned, with swirling textures and oceanic colors. The ocean floor is dotted with a treasure chest worth of jewelry. “Testing the Waters” is quite the aquatic triumph as its production was 10 months in the making and is the most labor-intensive single window display in Bergdorf Goodman history.

“Teacher’s Pets” is an inspiration for book artists as it takes viewers inside a 3-dimensional paper classroom filled with black and white paper animals, including a life-sized paper zebra, ostrich, panda bear, aardvark, white peacock, and more.  As the “students” pose within a cascade of zoological textbooks, the teacher – dressed in a black and white lace Marchesa gown – presides over the paper bestiary.  Noted New York calligrapher, Bernard Maisner, provided hand-lettered labels, in Latin, for all the animals.

In the final window, “Artists and Models,” a diverse collection of wood and leather folk-art animals from all continents gathers together.  The setting is a sculptor’s studio out of a folk tale, with an enormous assemblage of wooden creatures and woodworkers hand tools.  A mannequin, dressed in a mélange of designers, assumes the role of sculptor, assisted by several antique wooden artists’ models and by a quartet of antic leather monkeys.

 Bravo to David Hoey, Senior Director of Visual Presentation at Bergdorf’s and his team who devote an entire year to the production of the holiday windows! This qualifies as a dream job!

Info about the windows from 5th/58th. The full window photos were taken by Ricky Zehavi. I took the detailed shots and wish I’d taken more!

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Oh! To be able to decorate a cake like Zoe at  Whipped Bakeshop! Have a sweet weekend!

In case you missed yesterday’s post “How To Hand Wash A Wool Sweater” click here. (I don’t think subscription notices went out – at least I didn’t get mine!)

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Take a guess at what this vintage camping themed flannel print was used for. The inside of a sleeping bag? Pajamas? The lining of a rugged vintage inspired tweed jacket?  You probably wouldn’t suspect that it is a 1980-something Ralph Lauren skirt that I found in the bottom of my fabric drawer. Perhaps I’ll wear it for fun this Thanksgiving  (with long sweater and a cinched leather belt at the waist and tall boots) and then repurpose it into balsam pillows. Anyone have any clever ideas for how to reuse the fabric?

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Artist Jillian Tamaki used needle and thread to deliciously illustrate three book covers for the recent debut of the Penguin Threads series. She was commissioned  to stitch covers for Jane Austin’s Emma, Frances Hodgson Burnett’s The Secret Garden and Anna Sewell’s Black Beauty. Each is beautifully rendered, her stitches are perfect, the color selection impeccable. The covers are sculpt-embossed for a textured feel. With a resurgence of handmade and homespun goods in the marketplace (think etsy.com, craft fairs and farmer’s markets), it is nothing short of genius to update the classics for a new generation of readers by “embroidering” their covers. Do you know a young reader who would delight in these editions? Find the series at your favorite local bookseller.

Jillian Tamaki’s blog shows her work in progress and more about the project.

The inside flap is a truly inspired! The back of Tamaki’s canvas shows her neat stitches.

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I’m a huge fan of polka dots, so this fall’s flood of big and small, flashy and subtle polka dots makes me happy. These simple dots can be anything from bright and fun to subtle and sophisticated depending on scale, fabric choice, application and color. Did you know that spotted prints were christened “polka dots” in the 1840s as polka music captivated the world?

Aldo

Vogue-Sept11

HelenaBonhamCarter

Stella-McCartney-Fall-Winter-2011-2012-polka-dot-dress-trend

socks4-7095

Scan20004

MarcJacobs

Scan200011

Paul Smith

polka dot

Fashionology

tights

polkadot skirt

Stella McCartney

MarcJacobsFall

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ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH FW 2010_11 Thierry Mugler FW 2011_12

Thierry Mugler

Paul Cezanne

Pyramid of Skulls – Paul Cézanne

SkullADay

Skull-A-Day

La Calavera de la Catrina

La Calavera de la Catrina – Jose Guadalupe Posada

etsy.com:people:dembones

dembones

Van Gogh

Skull with a Burning Cigarette - Vincent van Gogh

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This is the kind of exhibit that gets my creative juices flowing. Too bad it’s so far from Vermont! Organized by Contemporary Art Museum in Raleigh, N.C., it draws from all my favorite fields – graphic design, industrial design, fashion, furnishings, architecture, and digital media and speaks to the pervasiveness and relevance of pattern and ornament today. Comprised of six thematic sections it features 72 remarkably inventive works from 42 international designers and artists.

The curators see ornament, not as a trend, but as an exciting new chapter in a rich history of visual communication. “This exhibition reveals the ongoing value of ornament and pattern through the work of contemporary designers and artists who are evolving deep and rich traditions,” said Denise Gonzales Crisp, co-curator of the exhibition. “We have gathered works that are ingenious, surprising, sophisticated, and innovative in their form, their story, and their use of technology. Seen here together, these pieces assert, in a variety of ways, ornament and pattern’s relevance to human expression and to the quality of every day life.”

Through January 2, 2012

Here are some of my favorite pieces.

Image-21_TABLE-MANNERS

Minale & Maeda

Studio Van Eijk & Van der Lubbe

Studio Van Eijk & Van der Lubbe

Jeffery Keedy

Jeffery Keedy

Studio Tord Boontje Garland-lights-brass

Studio Tord Boontje

JunkyStyling copy

JunkyStyling

Maharam_Muniz_w-e1317402083557-1019x1024

Maharam Muniz

Minale-Maeda -Table

Minale & Maeda

Peter Bilak

Peter Bilak

Fernando and Umberto Campana2

Fernando and Umberto Campana

Natalie Chanin

Natalie Chanin

Andrea Tinnes

Andrea Tinnes

(Thanks Ann for the tip!)

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I don’t usually post literary humour, but found “A Note of Apology” too much fun to resist. The photos of crazy quilts interspersed throughout are from a collection at The Adirondack Museum. Grab a cup of coffee and enjoy!

x

©Poppy Gall 2011

A Note of Apology

Via: The Wag and the Knave

Margery,

That I stand accused of rendering your 2011 New England Quilt Competition entry a linguini-like heap of shredded cotton squares and eviscerated wool batting and, further, that it has been strenuously impressed upon me by the Northern Vermont Quilters Association that I offer you a formal apology, this note could not have come as less of a surprise to you had you planned and orchestrated the entire incident yourself. However, I must precursor the requested amends with some clarification for, as the saying goes, it takes two to tango. In short, I believe our problem–that is yours and mine–has progressed along from the very beginning.

©Poppy Gall 2011

I have been a member of this quilting guild for more years than I can remember, while you came aboard only a short while ago when you left Manhattan with your husband and retired here to Northern Vermont. Prescott had decided to push away the plate of commodity futures and heed the call of the trowel as a country squire. That you took to the gentle needle art like it was the Indie 500, cranking out quilt after quilt, swamping the rest of us, was not in and of itself a complete negative. We appreciated your virulent enthusiasm. It was your inability to take constructive criticism that chaffed so. For instance, when I gently pointed out to you your fruit-themed appliqué throw had all the salaciousness of Francis Bacon but none of the genius, you reared your head and flexed your nostrils like a mare whose oats were off. Unprovoked, you shot back, suggesting I knew nothing about art and even less about abstract themes. Shall I now remind you of my ladder of years quilt whose rungs, with an almost Kafkaesque perversity, lead nowhere? Admittedly, it was lost on most viewers, but I ascribe that to both my choice of fabric (a cheerful Swiss dot), and the thematic necessity of looping the quilt like a Möbius strip, rendering its use as a bedspread null and void. At any rate, I managed to quell the urge to trapunto your chin and ascribed your flinty behavior to immaturity. I presumed over time you would come to your senses and learn to take criticism gracefully, so I neatly tucked the whole incident away in my mental scrap bag.

©Poppy Gall 2011

At our monthly meetings, it grew increasingly apparent we would inevitably clash again. Your running for board president after only a six-month membership was unheard of the in the guild’s history. The added fact that you beat me by a landslide contributed to my irritation. I lobbied hard, it’s true, but did not have the financial means to treat the electorate to hundreds of free six-inch cotton squares. (I admit I was a little surprised how quickly members of the guild can be swayed when enough free cotton is dangled in front of them.) Please don’t think I’m accusing you of buying the presidency. You won outright, but it was yet another incident that I was forced to file away.

©Poppy Gall 2011

I believe the final blow was your act as president to bar my pineapple log cabin quilt in favor of your own as the sole entry in the New England competition. You claimed my quilt “lacked sufficient follow-through and exhibited signs of an almost freaky post-menopausal dementia.” Those are not the kind of words one throws around in Northern Vermont, Margery. Yes, executing the quilt entirely in black, hoping to achieve a kind of folksy bleak, was a risky move, but brilliance requires risk. And, as to the collective gasp elicited by our fellow quilters when I unfurled it, what can I say? Failure is only amplified by a lofty attempt. Just ask any balloon artist. Your hostile gesture (laced with palpable envy) in vetoing my entry pushed me over the edge and I confess I completely lost it. So, yes, I suppose Nettie Childes did find me on my hands and knees running my rotary cutter back and forth across your entry “in a vigorous, almost savage manner.” Nettie, though, is given to exaggerated storytelling on par with a crack head. Remember the time she told us aliens had abducted her on her weekend trip to Montreal? They weren’t aliens, Margery; they were a French mime troop. As we say in quilting, her mind is not colorfast. But let me continue. As you and the entire board (which has somehow fallen under your spell) are certain that my intention in destroying your double nine-patch with its alternating pink and blue squares (I’m sorry to say a rather predictable entry which would’ve stalled out in the regionals) was to nix you from national competition rather than a temporary snapping of my heretofore stalwart demeanor, I appear to be the lone voice of reason and, therefore, it is difficult to persuade you (and the pathetically brainwashed board) otherwise. Frankly, during the proceedings, I detected a hint of acid creeping into what could have been an otherwise positive flensing. Old wounds I thought long healed were re-opened. My mind kept drifting to thoughts of the Salem witch trials and burning flesh. Beatrice Loom practically cackled as she sharpened her between needles on her pumice stone, and once or twice I though I saw the lycanthropic flash of her eyeteeth. So, if I must, I’m sorry. There. It is done.

©Poppy Gall 2011

On a more positive note, I’ve moved on to other things. Please forward all mail and messages to the Montpelier Knitting Guild where I’ve taken up some number eights and am happily subduing an obstinate bouclé.

Giggles compliments of The Wag and the Knave

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